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Raise the heat to moderate and add the milk, whisking constantly, until a smooth sauce forms (the sauce should be thick and glossy, but still runny), about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add the flour and salt, and whisk until both are incorporated and the mixture turns golden brown, about 2 minutes. In a large heavy saucepan over moderate heat, melt the butter. Arrange the florets, in one layer, in a 12- by 8-inch baking dish and set aside. Once the cauliflower is cool enough to handle, use your hands to gently break the florets from the thick central stalk-try to break the cauliflower into large florets rather than small pieces.

Remove the green outer leaves from the cauliflower, place it on the steamer rack, and steam until tender, about 10 minutes. Arrange a steamer rack over a large pot of boiling water. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 375☏.